No… not talking about the cheesy CBS soap opera… It’s the Bold Coast of Maine… the furthest point east in the contiguous United States… home to the second largest whirlpool in the world… the last stone ground mustard mill in the U.S… and the site of the Great Gold Swindle. (In 1897 the Reverend Prescott Jernegan with his accomplice Charles Fisher made the BOLD claim that they could extract gold from seawater scamming greedy and maybe not too bright investors from Boston and New York.)
|Sunset Point, view from our site|
|Water St. Tavern|
The Easternmost point in the United States is the Quoddy Head State Park. It is home to the West Quoddy Head Light. We stop to check out the lighthouse and watch the lobster men hauling their catch. There are a couple of trails here and we hike the Coast Guard Trail to the scenic viewpoint of the Quoddy Narrows.
Lubec is also known as the gateway to Campobello Island, New Brunswick. One of our “neighbors” at Sunset Point is a professional photographer and she joins us for a trip across the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Bridge over to the island. We start at the Roosevelt Campobello International Park and tour the FDR cottage and the Hubbard cottage and the surrounding grounds. We head over to the Wells-Shober cottage for “Tea with Eleanor” where we enjoy bottomless cups of tea and an assortment of cookies while listening to the life story of the longest serving first lady of the United States.
|East Quoddy Head Light|
Two items we did not expect to find in these far eastern reaches are gourmet chocolate and artisan handcrafted mustard.
Across the highway from Sunset Point is Monica’s Chocolates. Monica Elliot combines the perfect combination of fine chocolates with a traditional filling that she learned to make in her native Peru. These are by far (in our opinion) some the finest confections anywhere. She also carries a line of alpaca products and costume jewelry from Peru at super reasonable prices and some Maine-centric products. All of her products can be ordered on-line so we will never be without :-) Yea!
On the road to Eastport is Raye’s Mustard Mill, a mecca for the true artisanal condiment connoisseur. The last remaining stone ground mustard mill in the U.S. For over a hundred years the Raye family has been producing award winning, small batch, cold grind mustard using the original stones imported from France in 1900. We take a short tour, taste their mustards and leave with a half dozen jars of mustard. (This should tide us over for a bit LOL.)
At Dancing Dog Pottery and arts, we meet painter and potter Al Erikson. We have a great visit while admiring his paintings, pottery and porcelains with their unique Chinese glazes. The gallery also sells unique jewelry created by his wife Kelle. But this gallery will not be in Eastport for long. At the end of this current season they will be relocating to Oregon, just south of Newport. We’ll be stopping by for a visit next time we’re in the Pacific Northwest.
|Jim's Shop and Woody|
with two handcrafted scooters
On our last night in Lubec, we arrange for a lobster kettle set up, pick up a couple of one and a half pound hard shells from our friends at H.D. and Sons, grill a couple of steaks, add some corn on the cob and red potatoes… Surf and Turf at it's finest!
We originally intend to spend a week here, but there is so much to do... so we extend for a second week. In the middle of the second week, Dave throws another DEF error message. The closest dealer is in Calais, ME about 47 miles away. So Dave goes into the shop where they try to fix the problem. A few days later the error is back, so we extend our stay and Dave goes back again. They do more diagnostics and Dave has to return the next day for what we hope will be the final solution. We’ve now been in Lubec for three weeks. We originally hoped to make it to Baxter St. Park and fly over Katahdin (the northern Terminus of the AT) but with Dave not at his peak, we think it would be safer to head back to Bar Harbor, closer to a larger GMC dealer and the shuttle bus service to get us around if Dave needs to stay in the hospital…
|We did get to see another super moon and wished we'd booked the Old Sow tour this day. |
According to the boat captain, "It was Crazy Wicked!