LAST DAYS IN A CALDERA...

Week Four – our final week in Yellowstone…

Bald Eagle

An inventory of the fridge and pantry tells us that foraging is necessary.  We head this time to West Yellowstone, a small town in Montana, just outside of the park.  On our way, along the Madison River we stop and photograph a bald Eagle.  This is the first one we have seen here.  Seems that the eagles and osprey have been moving out of the park due to the lack of their favorite food. The cutthroat trout population has been decimated by overfishing and the illegal introduction of predators, especially the lake trout.  Interestingly, the loss of the cutthroat also impacts the elk, since grizzly bears now eat more elk calves as there are not enough trout to fill their post hibernation bellies.

Before shopping, we visit the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center.  There we learn about the Bears and Wolves of the Yellowstone area. All of the animals here have been relocated to the center because they were either orphaned or developed bad behaviors in populated areas.  It does give us an opportunity to watch these predators up close and personal and the Center does a great job to give these animals a life (although in captivity) that is close to their experiences in the wild.  We watch the Bears forage for food under rocks and in a pond.  The wolves interact and do wolf things.  Afterward we stop at Market Place to pick up supplies and head back to the park.

We start a hike along the Lewis Channel Trail.  There are signs that a bear has recently walked along this trail.  (It’s comforting to know that we have bear spray with us.) We wind through forests and meadows turning red and gold.  A coyote meanders along the edge of the stream searching for his next meal. Chipmunks scurry across our path. It’s stunningly beautiful, but it starts to rain when we reach the canal between the two lakes, so we cut this hike short and head back. 

Hickok and Cody
Thom Ross, 1998

Since the weather is iffy, we decide to head over to Cody, WY to visit the Buffalo Bill Historical Center.  (Rain just makes us want to spend time in museums.)  Since it’s an 80-mile drive each way and the Center is touted as the “Smithsonian of the West,” with five full museums, we decide to spend the night in Cody.  We check into the Sunrise Motel located next door to the museum and spend the first day exploring the Yellowstone Natural History Museum and the Buffalo Bill Exhibit and part of the Plains Indian Peoples Museum. 

Dining at the Irma Grill

That night we head over to Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel.  The dining room of the Irma Grill is pure old west with a world famous beautiful cherry wood bar, tin ceilings and an impressive collection of dead heads adoring the upper walls.  After some tasty cocktails – including the first really cold martini I’ve had in months – we have one of the best prime rib dinners of our lives.  Seriously their prime rib is cooked to perfection melt in your mouth heaven!  There is a reason they are famous for their prime rib.

The next morning we grab breakfast at Granny’s.  The place is packed, with tourists and locals.  (A good sign!) Prices are reasonable, portions are generous and the vibe is down home. Although tasty, the chicken fried steak was more chicken fried than steak. The accompanying sausage gravy tasted processed.  Their corned beef hash was “out of a can” so I ordered the Santa Fe Skillet of peppers, eggs, ground beef and cheese, served over hash browns. It was decent when doctored with salsa and a generous splash of Tabasco sauce. It’s comfort food, just like Granny used to make – if Granny used canned gravy, bottled salsa and processed cheese...

Saddlestring Cavvy
Bruce Graham 2007

Then it’s back to the Buffalo Bill Historical center where we spend the rest of the day exploring the rest of the Plains Peoples Museum, The Whitney Gallery of Western Art and the Cody Firearms Museum. We are enthralled with the exhibits of Plains Peoples Arts, the extensive works of western art and the sheer number of guns and riffles.  On the way out of town, we stop by the wild (bighorn) sheep exhibit and watch a short video about these beautiful reclusive animals.

Back in Yellowstone we continue our animal paparazzi experience.  We are fortunate to capture a small herd of bighorn sheep on Mt. Washburn and a stunning bull elk posing on a sandbar at Yellowstone Lake.  In Mammoth Hot Springs there’s a heard of elk lounging on the grass and on the hillside overlooking the center, the bleached bones of an elk are all that remain from predator’s and scavenger's dinner.

Lone Star Geyser

Elk Bones over Mammoth

On our final day, we plan a hike to the Prismatic Pools, but the parking area is overflowing so we check our map and decide to ride our bikes along the Lone Star Trail.  The trail runs along Spring Creek and the fall colors are incredible.  The bicycle authorized portion of the trail ends at the Lone Star Geyser.  We arrive to find a dozen or so geyser geeks waiting for the next eruption.  Within a few minutes we are entertained with explosive spouting water and steam.

Driving back to our home base we encounter a huge traffic jam near the Continental Divide.  Cars are double-parked and folks are lining the side of the road three and four deep with cameras and binoculars pointed into the forest. As we inch along, we catch a glimpse of a black bear ambling through the trees about fifty feet from the road. This is Yellowstone!

Yes we love Yellowstone, but we do take umbrage with some of the names in the park:

• There is NO fishing at Fishing Bridge.
• There are no elephants on Elephant Back Mountain.
• There are no gibbons in or around Gibbons Creek, Meadows or Falls. (The only apes here are of the hiker or angler species.)
• There is water, not lava in lava creek.
• There were no fairies or any other mystical creatures at Fairy Falls.
• No biscuits at Biscuit Basin. (Not even a muffin or a scone)

AND...

• You cannot buy a car at Nez Pierce Ford

Sheesh....

;o)


Aside from some of the nomenclature, no decent groceries, and limited cell service or WIFI, Yellowstone is an ever-changing magical place, where wildlife intermingles with civilization and the earth spits and spews.  There is so much to see and do and thirty-one days is not even long enough…we’ll be back! 

k

THE ADVENTURES OF DAVE AND DIMPLES VOL 1.16

BIKES AND HIKES AND BEARS… (Oh my!)

Week three in Yellowstone… There is a statistic that less than 1% of the visitors to Yellowstone ever leave the paved roads. Considering how little of the park is paved… they are missing a whole lot-o-amazing!

Temperatures at night are below freezing but the days are warm and sunny.  We are acclimatizing to the higher elevation.  The trails are calling and we answer.  Every day we check out our Nat Geo Map of Yellowstone and look for new paths to explore.  (Dave and Dimples Recommendation: The National Geographic Parks Map App for iPad and iPhone, with park maps in HD!)

Fairy Falls

Natural Bridge

Most of the trails in the park are for foot traffic only, but there are a few that allow bikes and we unfold the Montegues and hit the dirt (or gravel as the case may be.)  The bicycle trail to the Natural Bridge is a little over a mile, an easy uphill jaunt and a short hike up and around a natural stone bridge surrounded by forest and meadows.

Three and a half miles of the Fairy Falls Trail is a gravel road through sweeping meadows and is open to bikes.  The ride is slightly up hill and against the wind. The last few miles are foot traffic only.  We are pleasantly surprised to find a bike rack at the junction where bikes are no longer allowed.  At this point, the trail narrows and winds up through pine forest and over a small creek to finally arrive at the falls. The Falls are pretty; the hiking pleasant, and the return ride with the wind at our backs is fast and fun.

Mid week we plan a hike around the Southern Yellowstone Canyon area.  We park in the Artist’s Point parking lot.  The place is packed with tour busses and tons of tourists.  (Oh… I forgot to mention… the lull immediately after labor day, that we were so pleased about, was short lived and this week the park is full of tour busses and visitors who, like us, thought that this time of year would be less crowded.) After photographing Artist’s Point we head over to the Sublime Point Trailhead. There we recognize a Park Ranger from a hike we did last week.  She invites us hear her talk about bears before proceeding.  We have read the literature and we have bear spray, but it never hurts to have more information so we stick around.  Half way through the dissertation she looks over our heads, excuses herself, and walks a few feet up the trail.  We turn around to see a young male grizzly bear, newly on his own, and approximately three hundred and fifty pounds of wild, ambling across the trail about thirty feet up the hill.  Within a few minutes two Park Rangers armed to the max appear.  They are loaded with guns, ammo and bear spray. They question the first ranger and head up the trailhead after the bear.

We learn that there are two types of Park Rangers, there are the customer service, information, education, warm and fuzzy – rangers; they give the talks and teach the visitors about the park and the wildlife. Then, there are the police, animal control, and public safety, Rangers.  They issue speeding citations, herd bison off the roads, warn visitors when they are getting too close to wildlife and in this case try to teach a young bear that hanging out too close to humans is not a good idea. 

Within a few minutes we hear two loud firecracker type pops and a shotgun blast.  Another PR type Ranger arrives and after speaking with our first Ranger, heads up the trail.  He returns and reports that the Rangers are only “hazing” the bear. They are pelting him with beanbags, setting off firecrackers and discharging the shotgun to encourage him to move on to a less populated location.  A second set of firecracker pops and a shotgun blast reverberates through the forest.  The bear takes off and the trail is temporarily closed, until the Rangers feel sure that the bear has decided not to return to the area. 

Lamar Valley

OK… plan “B”… We head up to the Mt. Washburn Trail.  This is another bike trail.  It climbs from 8,750 to 10,243 feet in 2.5 miles. This one is a bit beyond our comfort zone, so we opt to hike rather than bike up the steep terrain. From this trail we can look down into the Lamar Valley, look across to where the Cygnet fire continues to burn and revel in the vastness of the YNP wilderness.

Palette Spring

The boardwalks around Mammoth Hot Springs are not much of a challenge, the inactive springs are a bit dull and tough to photograph, but the few active springs are lovely.

Yellowstone River

At the end of the week, we check at the Visitor Center and are informed that the Sublime Point Trail has been reopened. They did warn us that the bear had to be hazed two days in a row before he finally left the area and to be alert.  Armed with our bear spay, we head up to Artist’s Point.  The first leg of our hike is along the canyon rim to Point Sublime. We can peer over the edge and see the Yellowstone River way, way, way far down below. The views take our breath away – and the heights make that “funny feeling.”  We then back track and turn off toward the Clear Lake - Ribbon Lake Trail.  This trail takes us through forests, past a serene Lilly pond, through a steam spouting, mud pot boiling thermal area, back into forest past the turquoise spring fed Clear Lake and up over meadows at the east end of the Hayden Valley, where a little mud spot shoots a geyser upon our arrival. There is no sign of the grizzly, (who we call Boo-Boo Bear.)  We continue around past the upper falls where a fairly fresh pinecone laden bear scat sits right off the trail.   We have no way of knowing who left this… but we stay alert.  Our hike continues along the canyon rim past lower falls back to our starting point without any incident.  Of all the hikes so far, this one encompasses all of the features that Yellowstone is famous for and rates amongst our favorites… We hope that Boo-Boo Bear finds a better area to forage during this last month before hibernation for his own safety.

THE ADVENTURES OF DAVE AND DIMPLES VOL 1.15

GEEZER GEYSER GAZING…

Vent Geyser

Daisy Geyser

Our second week in Yellowstone marks the traditional end summer.  The park was full of families over Labor Day weekend, but in the days to follow, all that remain are, (to quote park employees) the newly wed and the nearly dead.  Our observation points to a much higher percentage of the latter.  ;o) We enjoy the peace, quiet and lower occupancy on the roads and trails… ) 

Truth - fewer autos and people but the same amount of bison!

Porcelain Basin

Porcelain Basin streams

Foraging here is a challenge beyond challenges… sigh….  The General Store has a really nice wine and beer selection, (woo hoo!!!) but the grocery section is filled with “camping junk food” and very little fresh produce or healthy options – guess folks on vacation don’t buy broccoli, LOL.  Fortunately we stocked up on fresh produce in the Tetons but after a week and a half we are running low and take a drive out of the park to Cody, WY and stock up at Albertsons. We also stop by McDonalds and use their free WIFI to take care some of business. The drive to Cody would be stunningly beautiful if not for the smoke.  Yes there is still smoke from California and Idaho marring the skyline but as the weather cools the air is clearing.  

Beauty Pool

West Thumb Spring

Chromatic Pool

The nights are getting colder.  We wake to temperatures in the high 20’s to low 30’s but the days are mostly sunny and warm.  The first part of the week is spent exploring more thermal features around the Old Faithful area, West Thumb and Norris.   We are still intrigued by the colors - the energy and we continue to work on capturing the visions of these areas. This is the unique and extraordinary Yellowstone.

Elephant Back Trail

In the latter half of the week we limit our adventures to a closer geographic proximity to our home base.  On The Elephant Back Trail we enjoy stunning (albeit a bit smoky) views of Yellowstone Lake. A ranger led hike to storm point through meadows bursting with autumn colors, spruce and fir forest, and the ever-present lodge pole pines is both beautiful and informative. We attend a Ranger talk about the ecology of the Yellowstone River and the role of the cutthroat trout in the entire park ecosystem and finish up the week with more hikes along the edge of the Yellowstone Grand Canyon and the Hayden Valley.  The geysers may be what triggered the creation of this park but the surrounding forests and meadows – the so-called ordinary features - are anything but.

sharing the trail

Wildlife is everywhere, in the obvious ever-present bison and elk.   It’s hidden in the rocks, the fallen trees of the forests and the high mountain meadows.  We pause and look closer to see the yellow-bellied marmot catching the last rays of heat before retreating to its den to hibernate for the winter, the pine martins foraging amongst the decaying logs and the black bear sow and her cubs, high on a hillside feasting on pinecones in anticipation of a long winter’s nap. 

THE ADVENTURES OF DAVE AND DIMPLES VOL 1.14

BISON GEYSERS AND CUTTHROAT…

Old Faithful

We arrive in The Yellowstone National Park (hereafter referred to as YNP) and check into the Fishing Bridge RV Park.  We have arranged to stay here for four weeks.  Seems that most RVers have a love hate relationship with this park.  The good news: this is the only YNP campground with full hookups (electricity, water and sewer) and it is centrally located for touring all of the sights.  The bad news: this campground was created before the advent of the super sized RV’s that are so popular these days, and it is not uncommon to have your neighbor’s pop-out just inches away from your bedroom window.  Armed with this knowledge, we ask at check-in if it is possible to switch spaces after Labor Day (when the season starts winding down) if our site is a bit cramped.   The woman at check-in suggests that they find us a good space now so we don’t have to move later.  All three clerks discuss the pros and cons of each available space.  The gentleman using the computer suggests space D-127.  This earns oohs and aahs from the other two. Then they inform us that there is a 10% discount if we stay 30 days instead of the 28 we have reserved. Quick math tells us that those 2 extra days are free and we’ll even get a refund.  So 30 days it is. 

Bison Spa

We have to wait a few minutes before proceeding to our site – seems that the bull bison are chasing the cows through the D loop – ahh buffalo love! Since we have just arrived, we view the bison as wild and exotic and exciting.  Within 24 hours we realize that they are everywhere, and a real pain in the ass when they decide to cross the road en mass, and then decide to go back the other way again. Regardless of their lumbering slow pace, these are wild animals – they may act like cows – but many of these are bulls…horny bulls with really large huevos. It’s breeding season – their one chance at love for a whole year and they will not let anything interfere when they choose a lovely lady from the herd and wait for cupid’s arrow to strike.  It’s actually scary watching the other tourists move in on these behemoths – no picture is worth being gored by these beasts!

Once we get to our site, we see that this really is one of the best sites in the park. It’s on the end with views of the lodgepole pine forest, and three small trees surrounding our space.  With the awing out we have a great little private exterior living space.  (Dave and Dimples YNP- RV tip: If you plan to stay at Fishing Bridge – ask for space D-127!)

Pumice Point
Yellowstone Lake

Osprey

Our first week is spent hitting some the sights and taking tons of pictures.  We see lots of wildlife: In addition to hundreds of bison, and an annoying little chipmunk that runs around our feet every time we sit outside, (OK he’s cute but we are absolutely not going to feed him!!!) we see osprey, pelicans, ginormous ravens, blue herons, coyotes, otters, elk, antelope, deer and wolves.

The geothermal attractions are spectacular.  Exploding geysers and bubbling pools taunt all of the senses, we see the colors created by the thermophiles growing in high temperature low PH water, hear the rumbling as the steam rises from the earth, feel the heat of the spray, smell the sulfur, and taste the vaporized minerals. The rivers, waterfalls, lakes and forests are also awe-inspiring.  We are thank-full that this land is protected for future generations. (Ok enough of this sappy sentimentalism.)

Lower Falls
Yellowstone River

We take a number of hikes around the park’s attractions.  The most ambitious is Uncle Tom’s Trail. This is a series of paved inclines and over 300 steps that leads about 500 feet down into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. At the bottom is a platform where we experience the beauty and power of the Lower Falls. Although paved and civilized this trail is tough especially considering the altitude. Tough but so worth it!

Touring in Style

To enhance our experience and improve our photo skills, we sign up for a guided photo tour around the Old Faithful geyser area.  The tour starts at 6:30 AM and we get up at 4:30 AM to chug a latte and make the hour and a half drive to the Old Faithful Inn where we meet up with three other amateur photographers and our guide Winn. Winn is a professional photographer who lives in the area all year round. He drives us about in one of the park’s original touring busses. (Ok riding in this was one of the reasons we signed up.)

He takes us first to the Kepler Cascades, where he helps us improve our waterfall capture techniques.  Next we stop and photograph the early morning sunrise backlit geysers and work on improving the drama of our pictures and finally we walk along the Firehole Lake Drive, working on capturing the light and colors of the geothermal features.  Winn points out that the Great Fountain Geyser is estimated to go off that evening between 7:30 and 9:30 and with sunset around 8:30 there is a chance for a sunset back lit photo of this geyser that sometimes spouts over 200 feet.  Not wanting to miss an opportunity, we return to the Great Fountain Geyser around 7:30 that evening and wait…  and wait… and wait… and watch the sun set… and wait… and watch the almost full moon rise… and wait… and finally around 10:30 the geyser begins to churn and bursts forth with a huge plume of steam.  And for the next half hour we watch nature explode in the moonlight. It is after midnight when we finally get back to Dimples.  It was a long and satisfying day.

Great Fountain in Moonlight

Great Fountain Sunset

early morning geysers

Cutthroat

The next morning we are up early again. Our destination: the Bridge Bay Marina where we have chartered a small boat and a guide. Yesterday was all about catching the light today it’s trout.  Our guide Mark takes across Yellowstone Lake and we slowly troll.  Most of the trout in YNP are of the catch and release variety and rules regarding equipment are strictly adhered to: no bait, only lures and flies and no barbed hooks.  The only fish that can be removed is the lake trout. We’d like to catch something to eat, i.e. a lake trout, and Mark sets our equipment to maximize our chances.  As we slowly make our way around the cove, Chris gets the fist hit… unfortunately it’s a tree standing straight up in the water.  After unhooking we continue on and I get a hit.  I start reeling and the fish has no fight.  This is a sign of a lake trout.  I continue to drag the fish up; only to land a good sized cutthroat.  It’s a truly beautiful fish and I gladly return him to the lake. (After taking his picture of course.) Next, Chris gets another hit.  This time it’s the real deal, and it’s fighting mad and clever.  Just as the fish is brought to the surface, and we see that it is another cutthroat, larger than the last one. Then it spits out the hook and swims merrily away.  Mark calls this the in-water release.  Shortly thereafter our time is up and we head back. We may not have caught dinner, but it was a great day!

Note: for our followers... WIFI is almost nonexistent in YNP - something about technology not being conducive to the YNP experience...sigh... 


Dave and Dimples Observation: most of the wildlife are tagged, wired or collared - humans are discouraged from using their electronic leashes... LOL  But never fear...we will keep track of our adventures and post as we can - including more photos...

k