|
Spiral and Chili-Rista |
So we crawl out of Chaco… and head back to
civilization.
We stop in Espanola, NM,
which is about 22 miles north of Santa Fe.
We check into the
Cottonwood RV Park.
The park is for sale and has seen better days but it’s reasonably
priced, has WIFI and a Laundry room.
Dave needs his oil changed and Dimples is frankly a mess inside and
out.
On the suggestion of one of the park workers we stop at
El Paraqua for lunch.
El Paraqua is a
hidden gem in Espanola. (Well not all that hidden.
Every major food critic including the NY
Times, Frommers and Gourmet Magazine have positively reviewed this
restaurant.)
We are so NOT disappointed!
With the first bite of my Stuffed Sopapilla smothered with Carnitas, my taste
buds are singing arias! Chris practically licks his plate as he finishes his Huevos
Rancheros.
In fact the food is so
outstanding that we return later that evening for dinner.
The margaritas are mixed to perfection, the
clam strip appetizer crisp and juicy, the Trio of Enchiladas (ground beef,
chorizo and steak) mouthwatering, the Chili Rellenos Y Carnitas are light and
the beef tender and flavorful, And the Sopapillias… ah the Sopapillias… that
accompany each entre…. are light, and puffy, with a family secret seasonings…
(I think it’s heroine because I now dream of these LOL) We finish with a couple
of Mexican coffees and the flan, yum yum yum!!! This is Northern New Mexico
cuisine of the highest caliber.
The next morning Dave goes in for oil change and lube job at
the local GMC dealer. On the way back,
Chris stops at El Parasol, (The original take out taco stand that spawned El
Paraqua) for some quick take out. The breakfast burritos are to
die for. This is fast food for the
foodie in all of us!
|
Santa Fe Style |
Although Espanola is relatively close to Santa Fe, we would
like to get more urban. We e-mail a former neighbor Moni Vancamp, (who with her
husband,
Gregory Kondos owns a home in Santa Fe) asking for dining
recommendations etc.
We are pleasantly
surprised to learn that Moni and her girlfriend, Barbara will be in Santa Fe
the coming weekend.
So after taking
Dimples to a self-service car wash and cleaning off the desert grime, we head
into Santa Fe.
Here we stay at the
Trailer Ranch RV resort. Although it’s located on a busy thoroughfare, it’s
quiet and has great WIFI.
There is also
an El Parasol take out right down the street… YEAH!! When checking in we meet some
fellow full-time Airstreamers and discover that they are the creators of the
Ginger Goes Glamping Blog! (Woo Hoo… rubbing elbows with celebrities!)
But wait… it gets better…
We meet up with Moni and Barbara on Saturday morning at the
Tesque flea market. Barbara is a producer of organic extra virgin olive oils
from a grove planted in 1888 by her grandfather on her family’s ranch (Martell
Ranch) in Solano County, CA.
I wish I
could direct you to a website where you too could purchase some of this
wonderful olive oil, but alas the website is pending… but the oil is
spectacular (thank you Barbara!) Moni introduces us to Alex, who sells museum
quality turquoise jewelry.
We learn a
lot and admire but we let Moni and Barbara do all of the purchasing LOL.
We did get some great spices from Chef Abdul
Wasabi.
Afterwards we have brunch at the
Tesque Market where the Green Chili Stew is spicy and flavorful and the Huevos
Rancheros heavenly.
Northern New Mexico
chefs sure know their stuff!
We return to Santa Fe and leave Dave at Moni’s house near
downtown and head off to do a little shopping and gallery browsing.
Browsing galleries with Moni who is an art
consultant is always informative and entertaining.
We finally end up back at Moni’s where we
meet up with Barbara’s friend Joe Dan Lowry.
Joe Dan’s family owns the
Turquoise Museum in Albuquerque and is the
author of
THE most comprehensive book about these lovely blue and green stones.
Joe Dan answers questions about
turquoise, but he’d rather talk about all of those things we are supposed to
avoid in polite company.
The discussions
are lively and thought provoking and revolve around our common humanity.
It is refreshing to have real adult
conversations without any avarice or hurt feelings.
Santa Fe is a mecca for seekers of great: shopping, food, art
galleries and Museums.
|
Native Vendor |
So let’s talk shopping.
Outside of the downtown there are strip malls and big box stores.
We stop at Bed Bath and Beyond to pick up a
replacement for our Simple Human soap dispenser. Our model has been
discontinued, but they have a floor model and they swap out our broken part at
no charge. (SWEET!) The shopping downtown offers a plethora of boutiques and
Native American vendors selling handcrafted jewelry and wares.
Here we pick up a small Acoma pot by Anne
Lewis to add to our small collection, some tin Dia de Los Muertos figures to decorate
Dimples, and a lovely Indian inspired belt to hold up Chris’ pants that seem to
be increasing in size as we travel about.
At
Diva jewelers, Chris has the broken opal in
his wedding ring replaced with a piece of spider web turquoise.
I also have my wedding ring sized down… it
was falling off due to weight loss.
Overall
we are good and don’t go too crazy with the purchases.
Now Food… ah… if we keep this up… all of our advances in
weight loss may be lost!
Our first attempt to grab a bite is at the Plaza
Café.
Somehow we are invisible and after
sitting for over fifteen minutes with no acknowledgement and watching patrons
who were seated after us get drinks and service.
We leave and head across the
plaza to Rooftop Pizzeria where we enjoy a Chicken pizza with green chili and
pine nuts and nice glass of Chardonnay and a dark draft oatmeal stout.
On
another foray into town we grab lunch at the Blue Corn Café.
Their enchiladas are wonderful and the Corn
Chipotle Chowder filling and bursting with flavor.
Their Sopapillias don’t compare to El Paraqua,
but they are nevertheless light and tasty.
|
YUM YUM
with a twist |
A hankering for sushi leads us to
San Q in Burro Alley where we sit at the sushi bar
and allow the chef to prepare his choice of offerings of his freshest sashimi
and a custom unagi roll with a Santa Fe twist. It’s fun to eat off the menu!
Chris finishes off his meal with a wonderful bowl of Oyako Donbori (a Japanese
comfort food.)
At the
New Mexico History Museum’s
Cowden Café we share a Frito Pie, a tasty (albeit junk food) regional favorite.
Of course, we stop at El Parasol a couple of times to grab, some of their tasty
burritos and yummy Chilaquiles. (Chris is exceptionally fond of the corned beef
burritos.)
Art
Galleries are everywhere offering pieces by local and international artists for
every taste and pocketbook.
|
Loretto Chapel |
And
then there are the museums. Wonderful
world-class museums! Our first stop is
the Loretto Chapel to view the “miracle staircase.” This is something I heard about as a child
and although we don’t buy into the mysticism it is part of the cultural
heritage of the city. Since we are
seeking culture, we purchase a Culture Pass that grants access to 14 museums
and monuments in the state. Four are located in Santa Fe. We spend three days
exploring two of them.
|
Museum of Indian
Art & Culture |
The New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors gives the visitor an in-depth
comprehensive view into the stories that made the American West, from the
prehistoric indigenous people through the colonial occupation by Spain, The
Mexican era, Statehood, the development of the atomic bomb and on up to the
present. The Museum of Indian Art and Culture is a real treat. A panel Native
American Curators and others designed the exhibits. The ongoing exhibit, Here, Now and Always
takes us on a journey from the pre historic beginnings to present day
experiences of the Southwest indigenous peoples. Relics from Chaco Canyon fill in some of the gaps
in our understanding of the complexity of the culture and a museum employee
points out a thousand plus year old net made from human hair measuring over 150
feet long and tells us of its unlikely discovery in a cave buried in bat guano.
Fascinating! This is one of the most
comprehensive collections of Southwest Indian tools, art and artifacts. The
current exhibit featuring works by third generation native contemporary artist
Margarete Bagshaw excites us. “Breaking the Rules,” says it
all! Her works are modern, visually stunning and retain a native sensibility in
fresh and exciting ways. Much to our dismay... photography is not allowed in any of these museums :-(
We also catch a showing
of the film Cloud Atlas at the local Cineplex. Although this movie has received
mixed reviews, we found it stimulating and fully enjoyable.
|
Chili-Rista's everywhere! |
Santa Fe is in the news this week… seems the actor Gene Hackman bitch slapped some homeless guy who
called Gene’s wife the C-word…. We didn’t see it but we were just around the
corner in the museum when it happened…
So after a week here in
and all of this blatant name dropping… We think we should stay another week…
the weather in perfect and there is just way too much more to do here!
k